Page 263 - Trang Phục Việt Nam

announced that strictly within a period of one month, there had to be clear distinctions of dress
among officials, curators, hereditary mandarins, headmen, soldiers, and women, and these
had to follow the temporary codes of dressing. Anyone breaking this rule would be severely
punished. Royal officials and students had to wear edged caps, a long panel tunic with
circular collar, and wear laced boots. For the former, garments should be made of silk. For the
latter, shirts should be in blue. Wives of the mandarins should also follow the standardized
dress codes. Those with a husband who was a commoner should wear a loose tunic, long
dress, with a bun on the head, black chuddar, and hair brooch and earrings. The shoes were
made of canvas or leather. There was a ban on hair cutting or revealing the legs. Also, use of
black, gold, and purple was prohibited. Previously, men often shaved their heads, and women
wore their hair short. However, the new regulations stipulated that “men and women are not
allowed to cut their hair”. Females had to wear a short tunic and long trousers, “following the
Northern traditions”. The common people could still wear traditional costume. The guerilla
troops wore tứ phương bình đính cap, which had been in long use, since the Đinh Dynasty,
and Anterior Lê Dynasty.
The Lê-Mạc-Trịnh-Nguyễn-Tây Sơn Dynasties
Legend has it that in the period before the Lam Sơn guerilla war, Lê Lợi was a village
notable but still wore short dark shirt to do the formwork and in other daily activities as a
normal farmer. When he ascended the throne as King Lê Thái Tổ, he named the country Đại
Việt. The name of the capital, Thăng Long, was changed to Đông Đô, and then Đông Kinh. The
Lê Dynasty adopted Confucianism as a mainstream ideology to reinforce the “golden rule and
gem measure” feudal system. The Lê Dynasty (1428-1527) reigned for 99 years before it was
overthrown. After that came the reign of the Mạc Dynasty for 65 years. Later the throne again
fell to the Lê (1533-1788). The period when our country had a Lê kings and Trịnh Lords in the
North, and Nguyễn Lords in the South lasted until the Tây Sơn guerilla war won a victory, with
the new capital city in Phú Xuân (Huế). During this period, social norms and human
relationships were defined by strict rules, including the dress codes which were meticulously
defined.
Costumes of kings and aristocrats
From 1434 onwards, under the reign of Lê Thái Tông, in such big ceremonies as sacrifices
to Gods, the worship of deceased Kings, accession to the throne, ceremonies for the Deities,
and the Lunar New Year celebrations, the King wore the royal tunic and a crown on his head.
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However, at a normal royal audience, held on the 1 or 15 day of the lunar month, he only
wore a golden robe and xung thiên cap. Later, in significant ceremonies, the King also wore a
golden robe, xung thiên cap, and waistband made of precious stones. At a normal audience,
the King wore a tam sơn cap and a dark blue robe. On death anniversaries of former kings, he
only wore the bình đính cap, and thanh cát robe.
In terms of the King’s costumes under the Mạc Dynasty, there is not much information found
in the old documents. However, dress codes and headgear of this time can be traced back
with reference to the statues.
In big ceremonies, a Trịnh Lord wore a purple imperial robe, xung thiên cap, and waistband