Page 264 - Trang Phục Việt Nam

In big ceremonies, a Trịnh Lord wore a purple imperial robe, xung thiên cap, and waistband
made of precious stones. At normal ceremonies such as municipal administration, royal
parties and visits, he wore tam sơn cap with purple robe. When visiting the Kính Thiên
Pavilion, or attending birthday ceremonies at the Temple of the Ancestors, the King would
wear bình đính cap, thanh cát robe in the color of the light-of-the-flame. At the anniversary of
recent deaths, he would wear bình đính cap, and a dark robe.

The Trịnh Lords’ costumes did not much differ from that of the Lê Kings, except for the
colors (the former purple, and the latter golden). With regards to the King’s descendants, the
Crown Prince wore a blue tunic and a bonnet. For the Lord’s descendants, Lord’s Crown
Prince wore a red tunic, a bonnet with gold-inlaid wings, a robe with unicorn design
embroidered with golden threads, a waistband made of precious stones and gold. When at
the Lord’s audience, he wore a thanh cát tunic with a string of pearls, a black gauze cap with
prominent dark threads sewn on.

Although proclaiming themselves Lords, the Nguyễn family in the South still held the title
Great Tutors of the Princes of the Lê Dynasty.
When Nguyễn Phúc Khoát proclaimed himself King, the customs of clothing changed.
Regulations on costumes and their designs were established, all based on the book Tam Tài
Đồ Hội. This was to make a distinctive difference with Bắc Hà (in North Vietnam), hoping to
maintain the ruling power over the existing land and people.

There are also few documented papers on the Tây Sơn costumes. In 1775, Nguyễn Nhạc
was awarded the first laureate in national examination; Nguyễn Huệ was given a military cap
nd
and coat. On December 22 , 1788, on a ceremonial day to inform God about his accession
to the throne, Nguyễn Huệ wore the royal tunic and a crown which he himself designed. On
that day, Quang Trung issued a royal decree highlighting five important points. One of those
was concerned with costumes: “Costumes of the people in Nam Hà, Bắc Hà still remained
the same. Only the costumes of the royal officials will be changed”. By mentioning the
common people’s costumes in the royal decree, as well as respecting their traditional
costumes, Quang Trung showed a high awareness of national and cultural identity.

Legend has it that when going to the battlefield, Nguyễn Huệ often wound a red turban round
th
his head, wore armor and rode an elephant. On January 30 , 1789 (5th Lunar January of the
year of Kỷ Dậu), the date which marked the complete driving out of Qing invaders from our
country, liberating Thăng Long capital, Quang Trung’s armor was discolored with the black
smoke of the guns and bombs.

Costumes of officials and soldiers

After a year’s reign, from 1429 onwards, King Lê Thái Tổ paid great attention to costumes of
officials and soldiers. However, because of the rundown state of the country after war, there
were only a few dress codes in use. For example, red silk dress was for military mandarins.
Under the reign of Lê Thái Tông, district education officers at Quốc Tử Giám (imperial
training school for mandarins) and district teachers other provinces, who previously wore thái
cổ cap, were allowed to wear the cao sơn cap. Sons and daughters of high officials, as well as