Page 262 - Trang Phục Việt Nam

high up, and the tail was curved and tied again in the shape of an ink-pen. With this hairstyle,
there were usually no sideburns, no buns, or no earrings as adornments. Rich people
adorned their hair with a tortoise-shell brooch, while others used brooches of bone or horn.
They did not use cosmetics, or jewelry made of precious stones and gold.
Men were often naked from the waist up, or wore a black four-panel shirt with a chiffon collar.
Black clothing was widespread. Most of them, including children, shaved their head since it
was said in the Buddhist principles that this was the spirit of a nation: “all for soldiers”. Some
common people wore a silk chuddar. When at home, they used no headgear. However, when
welcoming guests and going out, they used a chuddar. All of them went barefoot. Some wore
leather sandals, but these had to be taken off when entering the royal court.
Black-lacquered teeth and chewing betel were still popular customs. In pagodas, monks
often wore a kind of cassock called lục thù. Tattooing was particularly popular and attained
artistic standards. There were even professional tattooists.
The Hồ Dynasty
In 1400, Hồ Quý Ly usurped the throne of the Trần Dynasty. He proclaimed himself Emperor,
wearing a robe of the color of sweet sedge. He changed the country’s name to Đại Ngu. Then
during Hồ Hán Thương’s reign, a royal proclamation banned officials from wearing shoes,
except those made of hemp. Under the old regulations, officials above the sixth rank were
allowed to put on shoes. The royal servants had to brand different images on the forehead for
easy recognition. The royal officials’ servants branded the image of flaming gems (gems with
sparkling light like that of a flame). Princess’ servants branded the image of the “duong
duong” tree. Emperor’s servants branded a red earring. Servants of first and second rank
officials branded a black earring. Servants of third-rank officials and below branded two black
earrings. From 1403 onwards, it was compulsory for soldiers in each administrative division
to brand their arms with the division name for identification.
During the period of the Hồ Dynasty, army generals and soldiers usually wore leather armor
when going to the battlefield. Once in the war with the Chiêm Thành people, the soldiers had
to bake the leather armor to eat because there was no food left.

In August, Hồ Hán Thương commanded his officials to set up an altar in Đốn Sơn in a ritual
ceremony for the Giao. The King sat on the Vân Long palanquin. The imperial concubines,
mandarins’ wives and royal officials followed in order. The women’s headgear and dress style
had to be that of the next lower to their husbands. Those of a dignified family did not have to
follow this rule.
The struggle against assimilation
In 1406, the Ming Dynasty in China sent an army to invade our country. It was not until 1414
that they established their rule. During the following period of colonization (1414-1427), the
Ming made our country into a province named Giao Chỉ. They aimed to put our country under
their supreme control and assimilate our customs, traditions, and dress codes to Chinese
ways. The Ming Dynasty proclaimed, “Traditions are concerned with ruling of faith”. Thus, they
announced that strictly within a period of one month, there had to be clear distinctions of dress