Page 258 - Trang Phục Việt Nam

During the Lý Dynasty (1009-1225), the capital was transferred from Hoa Lư to Đại La
Citadel, later known as Thăng Long. In 1054, the official name for the nation was Đại Việt.

After the long dark time of warfare, the Đại Việt people were able to enjoy glorious moments
as an independent feudal nation. A comprehensive plan for rebuilding the nation laid a firm
ground for a rapid development of the entire nation and its people.
The King was the head of the royal court, followed by nine ranks of civil and military officials,
as well as specialized governing bodies. The economy expanded in every field. The nation
had enterprises to raise silk-worms and weave silks. The craftsmen could weave different
kinds of brocade, glossy flowered satin, and silks in different colors and elaborate designs.

As seen from the King Lý Thái Tổ statue in Kiến Sơ Pagoda in Phù Đổng, Tiên Sơn,
BắcNinhProvince, his hat was a kind of bonnet (called phác đầu hat) from the Tang Dynasty.
This kind of hat had 4 angles, 4 “ears”, and later had 2 “ears” to the side, the same as the
bonnet. One different feature was that the top was somewhat higher, and in the middle there
was a dividing line from lower to the higher part, with flaming suns for decoration on the side
parts. The front of the hat also had a naming sun, with blooming flowers on either side. The
hem around the hat was decorated with small knobs which symbolized precious stones.
Particularly, the two “ears” were like the wings of a bonnet, being short and thick. In general,
the designs tended to follow round and curved lines rather than sharp and square forms. The
imperial robe opened in the middle, with designs of dragons, flowers, and waves. The
sleeves were broad in both length and width. The shoes often had a rising pressed toe, which
resembled the black shoes during the Song Dynasty in China. On the hand of the statue was
an ivory tablet with drooping tassels. Based on the design of the hat, a difference can be
perceived for bonnets of later times, which often had long and narrow wings. This also shows
that this type of clothing appeared quite early. In comparison, the bonnets in the Song Dynasty
were designed with a pointed shape and long, narrow wings. Some other bonnets had short
but wings that fell to the shoulder. In contrast, black gauze hats and bonnets in the Ming
Dynasty closely resembled the hat of King Lý Thái Tổ in his statue, especially with the wings of
the bonnets. Thus, the sculpture of the King Lý Thái Tổ at this time might have been influenced
by the costumes of the Ming Dynasty.

In 1029, King Lý Thái Tổ initiated the design of gold octagonal hats and established codes
of costumes and caps for the dukes, as well as civil and military officials. However, these
rules might not have been strict enough in terms of costume styles and usage. It was written
that most of the Lý royal officials would carry a fish-embroidered bag, which was more or less
influenced by the apparel styles of the Song Dynasty.
In 1040, the King implemented a policy to use domestic brocade and satin to sew
ceremonial dress instead of using Song fabrics. This showed a determination for the self-
strengthening and self-reliance of our country. King Lý Thánh Tông also established codes of
dressing for royal officials. When attending a Royal Audience, the court officials had to wear
socks and shoes, a phác đầu hat, and purple robe, as well as bringing ivory tablets and
leather fastening straps. This was when the custom of wearing the phác đầu cap and shoes
first began.